About my breeding & planned litters
I only breed
one, or rarely two
litters per year. It takes a lot of time, as I have my pups indoors and try to
spend as much time as possibly with them :) I take them in & out several times
per day. They
are free to “run around” in the kitchen from 21 days of age and also visit other
rooms in the house, for new experiences. They have a lot of things to “play”
with, tugs for tugwar, balls & noicy metal-things. They have big yards outside,
neighbours to horses and sheep. Well fenced!
I visit friends with them from appr. 7 weeks of age, so they can experience to go by car and also see other places, both indoors and outdoors.
I think it is important to let them be socialised and used to cooperation with people, so we love when our friends come and visit us and play with mum & pups!
I want to sell them to people that do something with them, not only keep them as pets. Kelpies need to work!
In Sweden we can only
breed from hipscored and HD-free dogs, grade A or B. That might be maximum 4:4 -
6:6 in Australia.,
depending on where the points are placed.
20000101-20051231 in Sweden there are 483 scored. 424 with good hips, 297 grade A & 127 B. Dogs with HD are 39. 50 with HD grade C, 8 with D's and 1 with E hips.
UPDATED! 500 are max what the data can show per search, therefor split up in different periods.
During 20060101-20091231 383 are scored, 345 HD free: 190 A's and 155 B's. 38 with HD, 36 with C and 2 with D hips.
During 20100101-20141231 454 dogs are scored. 401 healthy, 266 A's, 135 B's. HD grade C 49, 3 with D and 1 with E.
During 20140101-20161231 272 are scored. 240 HD free: 149 A's, 91 B's. Dogs with HD are 27 grade C and 5 grade D.
All HD & ED-results are official, at the Swedish kennelclub's database. There are also all results from competitions & shows for all registred dogs.
The Swedish kennelclub
We also have to do a mentaldescription before breeding; MH. That's not approved or not, just known mental status, but very good to look at for the sake of breeding mentally stabile, open dogs with workingability. Looking at the result for a whole litter tells a lot.
I think that it is important to know as much as possible about the siblings to the parents, as they also affect on the litters, both about HD, health, mentality & conformation.
The best breeding is breeding with good dogs from good litters!
My goal with breeding are healthy dogs with a lot of “power” for work, as
tracking, searching & obedience. I have sheep and try to do a bit herding also,
the dogs love it, but in that I'm a beginner in herding and I
put most of the time for training obedience, tracking, searching and
articlesearch. At least I try to do the herding instinct test with my own dogs
and also try to arrange tests for my puppybuyers..
I prefer to use good mentaltested - also the big mentaltest for KORAD - dogs that also has proved that they can work, more or less. All owners does not want to go to competitions and I don´t mind, as long as the dogs will get their needs of activity in using brain and noose and are loved members of the family. But, if I will breed from a dog I prefer to know the workingability and it is a difference between training “at home” and compete a whole day in another place.
For the title KORAD, the dog has to be approved in a big mentaltest + HD OK + "good enough" looking and testicles OK.
I want to
be keeping our "old" lines with some "new blood" now and then,
always keeping the
inbreedingcoefficients under 2.5% and preferably no individual more than 0.8%,
depending on who and the results from that individuals progeny.
I think about it more and more, as in litters with high inbreeding the risk is much higher for illness...
The inbreedingcoefficients are counted out of 5 generations. If I count from 4 there will be lower and in some of the litters 0%.
As some affected hearts -
Mitral Valve Degeneration ( MVD ) - in younger dogs show up now and then, I want to keep it under some control,
that I feel comfy with myself.
Also middle age dogs with murmur - in the twilightzone of to early for a so called "old dogs heart" - occour. Not new, they have occoured earlier too.
This is a slow progressive disease. Dogs live many years with this from the time the murmur is discovered.
On the other hand, there are also many healthy old dogs.
No reason for panic! But I want to look after it ;-)
The first small changes can be seen with U/S 2-3 years before the leak and murmur start. Therefor wanting a little longer before breeding debute.
Auscultation - listening - of as many dogs as possible in my breeding and try to - as far as possibly - use a bit "older" and healthy dogs in breeding, after checking with U/S.
It takes patience - not really me... - and time. But it pays in the end - hopefully!
LINK TO HEART CHECKS HERE
LINK TO INFO ABOUT HEARTDISEASE HERE
Perhaps I will be allowed to lease Vickulas Whoopee
or Vickulas Wissla from
their owners. Thank you!
KORAD Vickulas Whoopee
HD A, ED 0, patella/knees OK
Will be heart checked before eventual breeding
KORAD LPI LPII Vickulas Wissla SPHII
HD A, ED 0, patella/Knees OK, eyes clear ( 2018 ) heart U/S clear ( 2016 )
KORAD SEUCH SE V-13 SE V-14 LUXCH LUX W-14 LPII LPIII Vickulas To Do "Yoda" SPHI SÖKHI
HD A, ED 0, patella 0, eyes clear ( 2016 ) heart clear U/S ( 2016 )
Up for level 3 tracking, approved level 2 searching, 1:st price in elite class obedience. He also has H.I.T. approved.
A very nice boy in every situation, comfy and cool. Has a high drive in work and a great playing and "tugwar-spirit". Loves his playing/tug rewards. All siblings HD/ED free.
All siblings scored. 5 A's and 1 B in the litter. All with ED 0.
Hopefully later on litters from Dutch Dynamite Devoted Dena and from Vickulas Zeta.
Time will tell!
Have a look at the littersplans in Swedish also. More often updated ;-) HERE